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rv:assessment [2017/08/20 14:54] frater_secessus [construction] |
rv:assessment [2023/08/08 20:30] princess_fluffypants [Miles] |
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- | ====== Assessing | + | ====== Assessing |
+ | ===== Do extensive research on the exact vehicle you're looking at ===== | ||
- | ===== title and registerability | + | You should go into every potential buying inspection knowing //more// about that specific model of vehicle than the seller does. Before you even go to look at a vehicle in person, you want to know things like: |
+ | |||
+ | * What were the differences in generations for that vehicle? | ||
+ | * What were the engine/ | ||
+ | * What are the [[rv: | ||
+ | * Owner forums for specific models can be // | ||
+ | * What are the factory recommended service intervals? | ||
+ | * How often does the manufacturer recommend things like transmission fluid changes, serpentine belt replacement, | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== Miles ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Not all miles are created equal. | ||
+ | |||
+ | As a //HUGE// over simplification for the chassis/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | * 0-10,000 miles | ||
+ | * Higher risk of manufacturing defects, failures or repairs needed due to build issues. | ||
+ | * 10, | ||
+ | * Usually the most trouble-free period, but also expensive to buy something used. | ||
+ | * 100, | ||
+ | * The sweet spot. Maintainence items will start to become more common, but most vehicles will still be pretty reliable. Depreciation has taken it's biggest bite so prices start to become quite reasonable. | ||
+ | * 150, | ||
+ | * Minor repairs will start to be needed, but the purchase prices can be low enough to make it worth it. See the [[rv: | ||
+ | * Having some mechanical abilities are useful to help tell the "Oh that's annoying but I can live with it" problems from the "shut down the engine immediately to prevent further damage" | ||
+ | * 200, | ||
+ | * Vans with this many miles can be //very// cheap if you are savvy, but this is also where miles can start to be a concern. | ||
+ | * If you're buying something with this mileage, you should be capable of doing minor to medium repairs yourself. | ||
+ | * Passenger vans are typically in better shape with higher mileage. Especially if you can find something that did a lot of highway driving (like airport shuttles), this many miles might not be //as// much of a problem. | ||
+ | * 300,000+ miles | ||
+ | * This is the danger zone, only experienced mechanics should be looking for vehicles in this range. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== Mechanic' | ||
+ | |||
+ | If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The potential camper is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection. | ||
+ | |||
+ | On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ===== Title and Register-ability | ||
A **clear title in the seller' | A **clear title in the seller' | ||
+ | |||
+ | For those in California, there is a minor chance that a vehicle from out of state may not be able to be legally registered in California due to California-specific emission controls. | ||
- | ==== learn the issuing state' | + | ==== Learn the issuing state' |
//Before you talk to the seller// learn what the vehicle' | //Before you talk to the seller// learn what the vehicle' | ||
+ | Some other types of not-ideal title types can be " | ||
- | ==== ask the seller the right questions ==== | + | Also check your own state' |
- | - do the vehicle have a [normal], non-salvage title in hand? | + | // |
- | | + | |
- | | + | |
+ | ==== Ask the seller the right questions ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | * How long have you had it? | ||
+ | * What did you use it for? | ||
+ | * Have you had any work done to it? | ||
+ | * Do you have a normal, non-salvage title in hand? | ||
+ | * Salvage and other branded titles aren't necessarily a "hard no" but it's important to have full information. | ||
+ | * A vehicle with a Salvage or otherwise branded title should be // | ||
+ | * Does the VIN match the title? | ||
+ | * Is it registered in your name (ie, the name on your driver' | ||
+ | | ||
+ | * When and what recent repairs or maintenance has been done? | ||
+ | * Why are you selling it? | ||
+ | * Can I have it inspected by a mechanic? | ||
If the answer to any of these questions is seems shady, complicated, | If the answer to any of these questions is seems shady, complicated, | ||
- | Tales of woe like these are red flags: | + | Tales of woe like these about the title are red flags: |
- | * "I have the title somewhere, I' | + | * "I don't have it" |
- | * "I never registered it", or | + | * Translation: |
- | * "I lost the title but you can get a replacement easily" | + | * "I have the title somewhere, I' |
- | * "it actually belongs to my mom/ | + | * Translation: |
+ | * "I never registered it" | ||
+ | * Translation: | ||
+ | * //"The van is stolen."// | ||
+ | * "I lost the title but you can get a replacement easily" | ||
+ | * Translation: | ||
+ | * //"The van is stolen."// | ||
+ | * "Well, it actually belongs to my mom/ | ||
+ | * Translation: | ||
- | ===== construction ===== | + | ==== Get a VIN check ==== |
- | > " | + | VIN checks are not perfect but can provide usable information about a potential vehicle. |
+ | The most popular VIN check service is Carfax. | ||
+ | Next in line is [[https:// | ||
+ | * Paid services | ||
+ | * Carfax | ||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
+ | * Free checks | ||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
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- | ===== Condition ===== | ||
- | The general advice on the CRVL forums is to buy on condition first.((http:// | ||
- | A vehicle with lots of miles but in good condition with all maintenance records may be a better bet than a vehicle with fewer miles but in rougher condition or with unknown maintenance history. | ||
- | ==== rust ==== | ||
- | Phybere, discussing Ford vans, says this about rust: | + | ===== construction |
- | > "The spot to check on these is on the rear suspension, where the leaf springs attach to the body (the shackles). If something rusts off, that's gonna be first. There will be rust, but in general it's fine if the rusted thing isn't rotten/ | + | |
- | ===== Miles ===== | + | |
+ | > " | ||
- | ===== Your assessment ===== | ||
- | ===== Mechanic' | ||
- | If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**. | ||
- | The potential camper is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected. | ||
- | If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection. | ||
- | On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting. | + | ===== Condition ===== |
- | ==== non-local vehicles ==== | + | The general advice on the CRVL forums is to buy on condition first.((http:// |
- | If the vehicle | + | A vehicle |
- | There are also RV and Vehicle inspectors who will travel to the vehicle to inspect it. The price is generally higher and they will not be able to lift the vehicle onto an overhead rack for thorough underside inspection. | + | ==== rust ==== |
+ | Rust-free is better than rusted, but body panel rust is less serious than frame rust (for example). Your mechanic will be able to advise what is cosmetic and what is problematic. | ||
+ | See the page on [[rv: | ||
- | ===== calculating an offer ===== | + | ==== known issues |
+ | All vehicle platforms have known issues; | ||
+ | Knowing what the common issues are can help you look for (or ask about) common problems. | ||
+ | ==== non-local vehicles ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | If the vehicle is not local to you, consider asking a forum member who lives in that area to lay eyes on it for you. It won't be an inspection but can give you an idea whether or not to buy a bus or train ticket to see it for yourself. | ||
+ | |||
+ | There are also RV and Vehicle inspectors who will travel to the vehicle to inspect it. The price is generally higher and they will not be able to lift the vehicle onto an overhead rack for thorough underside inspection. | ||