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rv:assessment [2021/08/18 15:53] frater_secessus [ask the seller the right questions] |
rv:assessment [2023/08/28 02:40] princess_fluffypants [Mechanic's inspection] |
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- | ====== Assessing | + | ====== Assessing |
+ | ===== Do extensive research on the exact vehicle you're looking at ===== | ||
- | ===== title and registerability | + | You should go into every potential buying inspection knowing //more// about that specific model of vehicle than the seller does. Before you even go to look at a vehicle in person, you want to know things like: |
+ | |||
+ | * What were the differences in generations for that vehicle? | ||
+ | * What were the engine/ | ||
+ | * What are the [[rv: | ||
+ | * Owner forums for specific models can be // | ||
+ | * What are the factory recommended service intervals? | ||
+ | * How often does the manufacturer recommend things like transmission fluid changes, serpentine belt replacement, | ||
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+ | ===== Miles ===== | ||
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+ | Not all miles are created equal. | ||
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+ | As a //HUGE// over simplification for the chassis/ | ||
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+ | * 0-10,000 miles | ||
+ | * Higher risk of manufacturing defects, failures or repairs needed due to build issues. | ||
+ | * 10, | ||
+ | * Usually the most trouble-free period, but also expensive to buy something used. | ||
+ | * 100, | ||
+ | * The sweet spot. Maintainence items will start to become more common, but most vehicles will still be pretty reliable. Depreciation has taken it's biggest bite so prices start to become quite reasonable. | ||
+ | * 150, | ||
+ | * Minor repairs will start to be needed, but the purchase prices can be low enough to make it worth it. See the [[rv: | ||
+ | * Having some mechanical abilities are useful to help tell the "Oh that's annoying but I can live with it" problems from the "shut down the engine immediately to prevent further damage" | ||
+ | * 200, | ||
+ | * Vans with this many miles can be //very// cheap if you are savvy, but this is also where miles can start to be a concern. | ||
+ | * If you're buying something with this mileage, you should be capable of doing minor to medium repairs yourself. | ||
+ | * Passenger vans are typically in better shape with higher mileage. Especially if you can find something that did a lot of highway driving (like airport shuttles), this many miles might not be //as// much of a problem. | ||
+ | * 300,000+ miles | ||
+ | * This is the danger zone, only experienced mechanics should be looking for vehicles in this range. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== Mechanic' | ||
+ | |||
+ | If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The potential vehicle is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected. | ||
+ | |||
+ | If you're buying a factory-made RV, you'll want to take it to an RV specific repair shop to have it inspected by someone who specializes in RVs. These inspections take much longer and are more expensive, because they are checking many more systems. Expect to pay $150-200 and it might take a few hours. | ||
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+ | If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection. | ||
+ | |||
+ | On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ===== Title and Register-ability | ||
A **clear title in the seller' | A **clear title in the seller' | ||
+ | For those in California, there is a minor chance that a vehicle from out of state may not be able to be legally registered in California due to California-specific emission controls. | ||
- | ==== learn the issuing state' | + | |
+ | ==== Learn the issuing state' | ||
//Before you talk to the seller// learn what the vehicle' | //Before you talk to the seller// learn what the vehicle' | ||
+ | |||
+ | Some other types of not-ideal title types can be " | ||
+ | |||
+ | Also check your own state' | ||
+ | |||
+ | // | ||
- | ==== ask the seller the right questions ==== | + | ==== Ask the seller the right questions ==== |
- | | + | |
- | | + | * What did you use it for? |
- | | + | * Have you had any work done to it? |
- | | + | * Do you have a normal, non-salvage title in hand? |
+ | * Salvage and other branded titles aren't necessarily a "hard no" but it's important to have full information. | ||
+ | * A vehicle with a Salvage or otherwise branded title should be // | ||
+ | * Does the VIN match the title? | ||
+ | * Is it registered in your name (ie, the name on your driver' | ||
+ | | ||
+ | | ||
+ | * Why are you selling it? | ||
+ | * Can I have it inspected by a mechanic? | ||
If the answer to any of these questions is seems shady, complicated, | If the answer to any of these questions is seems shady, complicated, | ||
- | Tales of woe like these are red flags: | + | Tales of woe like these about the title are red flags: |
- | * "I have the title somewhere, I' | + | * "I don't have it" |
- | * "I never registered it", or | + | * Translation: |
- | * "I lost the title but you can get a replacement easily" | + | * "I have the title somewhere, I' |
- | * "it actually belongs to my mom/ | + | * Translation: |
+ | * "I never registered it" | ||
+ | * Translation: | ||
+ | * //"The van is stolen."// | ||
+ | * "I lost the title but you can get a replacement easily" | ||
+ | * Translation: | ||
+ | * //"The van is stolen."// | ||
+ | * "Well, it actually belongs to my mom/ | ||
+ | * Translation: | ||
- | ==== run the VIN ==== | + | ==== Get a VIN check ==== |
- | VIN checks are not perfect but can often provide usable information about a potential vehicle. | + | VIN checks are not perfect but can provide usable information about a potential vehicle. |
The most popular VIN check service is Carfax. | The most popular VIN check service is Carfax. | ||
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Next in line is [[https:// | Next in line is [[https:// | ||
- | + | | |
- | + | * Carfax | |
- | | + | * [[https:// |
- | * carfax | + | * Free checks |
- | * [[https:// | + | |
- | * free checks | + | |
* [[https:// | * [[https:// | ||
* [[https:// | * [[https:// | ||
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==== rust ==== | ==== rust ==== | ||
- | Rust-free is better than rusted, but body panel rust is less serious than frame rust (for example). | + | Rust-free is better than rusted, but body panel rust is less serious than frame rust (for example). Your mechanic will be able to advise what is cosmetic and what is problematic. |
+ | |||
+ | See the page on [[rv: | ||
==== known issues ==== | ==== known issues ==== | ||
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- | ===== Miles ===== | ||
- | FIXME | ||
- | ===== Your assessment ===== | ||
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- | FIXME | ||
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- | ===== Mechanic' | ||
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- | If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**. | ||
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- | The potential camper is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected. | ||
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- | If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection. | ||
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- | On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting. | ||
==== non-local vehicles ==== | ==== non-local vehicles ==== | ||
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There are also RV and Vehicle inspectors who will travel to the vehicle to inspect it. The price is generally higher and they will not be able to lift the vehicle onto an overhead rack for thorough underside inspection. | There are also RV and Vehicle inspectors who will travel to the vehicle to inspect it. The price is generally higher and they will not be able to lift the vehicle onto an overhead rack for thorough underside inspection. | ||
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- | ===== calculating an offer ===== | ||
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