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electrical:12v:alternator [2024/04/26 16:56] frater_secessus [TLDR] |
electrical:12v:alternator [2024/05/09 14:00] (current) frater_secessus [isolator without a house battery] |
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See [[electrical: | See [[electrical: | ||
- | ==== charging current patterns ==== | + | |
+ | |||
+ | ==== alternator current rating ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | In general, vehicles with higher-rated alternators (150A, for example) will handle a given load better than vehicles with lower-rated alternators (60A, for example). | ||
+ | |||
+ | see [[electrical: | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ==== fuel consumption ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Fuel consumption for power generation will be greatest when the vehicle is idled. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Using the 3.6L [[rv: | ||
+ | |||
+ | >> In terms of cost, an average USA price of gas at $3.36, **idling** for 2 hours to produce 1kWh with a 40A DC-DC charger would burn 2 * (2/3 + 0.074) gal = 1.48 gal = **$4.97 / kWh**. If you were going to be **driving** anyway, then the additional cost of turning on a DC-DC charger (using my assumptions) would be about **50c/ | ||
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+ | ===== charging current patterns | ||
* charging lead chemistries directly from the alternator tends toward | * charging lead chemistries directly from the alternator tends toward | ||
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'' | '' | ||
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- | |||
- | ==== alternator current rating ==== | ||
- | |||
- | In general, vehicles with higher-rated alternators (150A, for example) will handle a given load better than vehicles with lower-rated alternators (60A, for example). | ||
- | |||
- | see [[electrical: | ||
- | |||
- | ===== fuel consumption ===== | ||
- | |||
- | Fuel consumption for power generation will be greatest when the vehicle is idled. | ||
- | |||
- | Using the 3.6L [[rv: | ||
- | |||
- | >> In terms of cost, an average USA price of gas at $3.36, **idling** for 2 hours to produce 1kWh with a 40A DC-DC charger would burn 2 * (2/3 + 0.074) gal = 1.48 gal = **$4.97 / kWh**. If you were going to be **driving** anyway, then the additional cost of turning on a DC-DC charger (using my assumptions) would be about **50c/ | ||
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- use [[electrical: | - use [[electrical: | ||
- if charging by relay only, use Crtical size wire to get the most voltage and current to the lead house battery | - if charging by relay only, use Crtical size wire to get the most voltage and current to the lead house battery | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== triggering | ||
+ | |||
+ | The setup needs to be // | ||
+ | |||
+ | - use of an ON/OFF 12v trigger signal (" | ||
+ | - voltage-sensing - 12v is always being provided to the charger. | ||
+ | |||
+ | In some cases both are combined for particular installs. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
===== alternator hacks ===== | ===== alternator hacks ===== | ||
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==== workaround: heavier wiring ==== | ==== workaround: heavier wiring ==== | ||
- | It's also possible to run a separate and heavier cable from the TV to the trailer; | + | It's also possible to run a separate and (much) |
+ | |||
- | Heavier cabling + a DC-DC charger could provide correct voltage to the trailer battery. | ||
===== isolator without a house battery ===== | ===== isolator without a house battery ===== | ||
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- | This setup would be: starter battery -> isolator -> inverter -> 120vac devices | + | This setup would be: starter battery -> combiner((A $25-$40 VSR (often marketed as a smart battery |
+ | -> inverter -> 120vac devices | ||
+ | |||