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--- rv:assessment [2023/08/08 19:30]
princess_fluffypants [Do extensive research on exactly what you're looking at]
+++ rv:assessment [2024/08/30 12:54] (current)
frater_secessus [non-local vehicles]
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-====== Assessing a camper or other vehicle for possible purchase ======
+====== Assessing a vehicle for possible purchase ======
-===== Do extensive research on exactly what you're looking at =====
+"//No van ever costs less than $5,000.//" - Anonymous
+===== Do extensive research on the exact vehicle you're looking at =====
 You should go into every potential buying inspection knowing //more// about that specific model of vehicle than the seller does. Before you even go to look at a vehicle in person, you want to know things like:
@@ Line 11: / Line 12: @@
   * What are the factory recommended service intervals?
     * How often does the manufacturer recommend things like transmission fluid changes, serpentine belt replacement, cam chain/belt changes, waterpump rebuilds, A/C system recharges, coolant flushes, brake fluid changes, etc?
+===== Miles =====
+Not all miles are created equal.  "City" driving characterized by frequent short trips and start-stop driving causes immensely more wear and tear per mile than cruising down the highway.
+As a //HUGE// over simplification for the chassis/engine/body itself:
+  * 0-10,000 miles
+    * Higher risk of manufacturing defects, failures or repairs needed due to build issues.
+  * 10,000-100,000 miles
+    * Usually the most trouble-free period, but also expensive to buy something used.
+  * 100,000-150,000 miles
+    * The sweet spot. Maintainence items will start to become more common, but most vehicles will still be pretty reliable. Depreciation has taken it's biggest bite so prices start to become quite reasonable.
+  * 150,000-200,000
+    * Minor repairs will start to be needed, but the purchase prices can be low enough to make it worth it.  See the [[rv:van_issues|All vans have issues]] page for some common failure points that are model specific to watch out for.
+    * Having some mechanical abilities are useful to help tell the "Oh that's annoying but I can live with it" problems from the "shut down the engine immediately to prevent further damage" problems.
+  * 200,000-300,000
+    * Vans with this many miles can be //very// cheap if you are savvy, but this is also where miles can start to be a concern.
+    * If you're buying something with this mileage, you should be capable of doing minor to medium repairs yourself.
+    * Passenger vans are typically in better shape with higher mileage. Especially if you can find something that did a lot of highway driving (like airport shuttles), this many miles might not be //as// much of a problem.
+  * 300,000+ miles
+    * This is the danger zone, only experienced mechanics should be looking for vehicles in this range.  They can still be acceptably reliable, but you need to know what you're doing.
@@ Line 116: / Line 139: @@
-===== Miles =====
-Not all miles are created equal.  "City" driving characterized by frequent short trips and start-stop driving causes immensely more wear and tear per mile than cruising down the highway.
-As a //HUGE// over simplification for the chassis/engine/body itself:
+==== non-local vehicles ====
-  * 0-10,000 miles
+If the vehicle is not local to you, consider asking a forum member who lives in that area to lay eyes on it for you.  It won't be an inspection but can give you an idea whether or not to buy a bus or train ticket to see it for yourself.
-    * Higher risk of manufacturing defects, failures or repairs needed due to build issues.
-  * 10,000-100,000 miles
-    * Usually the most trouble-free period, but also still going to be the most expensive to buy something used.
-  * 100,000-200,000 miles
-    * The sweet spot for used purchases. Minor repairs will be occasional, but by this time the purchase price is typically low enough to make it worth it.  See the [[rv:van_issues|All vans have issues]] page for some common failure points that are model specific to watch out for.
-  * 200,000-300,000
-    * This is where miles can start to be a concern. Typically if you're buying something with this mileage, you should be fairly mechanically inclined and capable of doing minor to medium repairs yourself.
-    * Vans with this many miles can start to become //very// cheap if you are savvy.
-    * Passenger vans (especially those used for airport shuttles or with lots of highway driving) are typically in better shape with these many miles.  Especially if you can find something that did a lot of highway usage, this many miles is likely not going to be a problem and can get you a fairly reliable van for not much money.
-  * 300,000+ miles
-    * This is the danger zone for most vehicles, and only experienced mechanics who know what they're doing should be looking for vehicles in this range.  They can still be had and can still be acceptably reliable, but you need to know what you're doing.
-===== Mechanic's inspection =====
+There are also RV and Vehicle inspectors who will travel to the vehicle to inspect it.  The price is generally higher and they will not be able to lift the vehicle onto an overhead rack for thorough underside inspection.
-If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**.
-The potential camper is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected.  This usually takes less than an hour and costs $50 - $100.
-If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection.  This will reassure him you are honest and give him something to show other buyers if you decide to pass.  If the seller still won't allow the vehicle to be inspected it may be safest to assume they are hiding something about the vehicle's condition.
+===== Mechanic's inspection =====
-On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting.  On older vehicles there will generally be work needed immediately or at some future time ;  the mech will be able to ballpark the costs of the needed repairs.
+If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**.
-==== non-local vehicles ====
+The potential vehicle is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected.  This usually takes less than an hour and costs $50 - $100.
-If the vehicle is not local to you, consider asking a forum member who lives in that area to lay eyes on it for you.  It won't be an inspection but can give you an idea whether or not to buy a bus or train ticket to see it for yourself.
+If you're buying a factory-made RV, you'll want to take it to an RV specific repair shop to have it inspected by someone who specializes in RVs. These inspections take much longer and are more expensive, because they are checking many more systems. Expect to pay $150-200 and it might take a few hours.
-There are also RV and Vehicle inspectors who will travel to the vehicle to inspect it.  The price is generally higher and they will not be able to lift the vehicle onto an overhead rack for thorough underside inspection.
+If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection.  This will reassure him you are honest and give him something to show other buyers if you decide to pass.  If the seller still won't allow the vehicle to be inspected it may be safest to assume they are hiding something about the vehicle's condition.
+On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting.  On older vehicles there will generally be work needed immediately or at some future time; this isn't necessarily a problem, but you should take it into account when negotiating the price of the vehicle. The mechanic should be able to ballpark the costs of the needed repairs.

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