User Tools

Site Tools


electrical:12v:diysmartpass

This is an old revision of the document!


DRAFT / EXPERIMENTAL / OPINION

DIY Ctek D250 + Smartpass setup

This article is about the Ctek combo and possible approaches to duplicating the major functionality for less money and/or better specs.

This article assumes you want and the bank will accept >20A of alternator charging, and that your alternator can handle it. If you only have a 80Ah AGM then the combo setup is massive overkill. The bare D250 would handle that with ease.

the official combo: ~$654

The Ctek D250-series DC-DC charger charger and Smartpass MOSFET isolator combine to solve an expensive problem: how to get meaningful current and staged charging at the same time. Meaningful current with the Ctek combo means “up to 100A (or 140A) during Bulk.”

how it works

The D250 provides staged (boosted) charging and the Smartpass provides Big Current during Bulk charging.1) The setup is pricey; as of Aug 2022 the D250 is $328 and the Smartpass 120 is $326. Total $654. There are other features in this setup but these main features might be replicated by

challenges

The two devices are paralleled. One boosts voltage for proper charging and the other simply passes alternator voltage. The chief challenges are:

  1. Primary - stop higher charging voltage from leaking back to the starter battery, creating an endless loop. Ctek handles this inside the Smartpass by using MOSFETS.2)
  2. Secondary - stop the isolator from passing voltages >Vfloat from alternator to house bank during Vfloat. This should be a minimal problem with lead batteries3) and with driving times limited to a few hours. It could be a problem with Li batteries and many hours of driving. Note: it is not clear that teh Ctek combo addresses this issue.

Another challenge confronting both Ctek and DIY is the isolator's lack of control over current. In reality the combo might make 20A+120A (max theoretical) or 20A+1A (when battery bank is approaching alternator voltage). There is no guarantee that the DC-DC will be making 20A, either. If your bank is only accepting 15A then having 140A theoretical on tap will not matter.

approaches

The approaches below cost 1/2 to 1/3rd as much as the official combo to meet basic functionality.

20A combo DC-DC + isolator: $172

This is the simplest and cheapest option, but requires ingenuity to keep boosted voltage from leaking back to the chassis. In this case the isolator (solenoid)

20A combo DC-DC + diode isolator: $173

This option is requires no HVD, but has two possible drawbacks:

  1. often requires moving alternator-to-battery wire
  2. drop of ~0.5v. Perhaps not a big issue since the DC-DC is boosting.

20A combo DC-DC + mosfet isolator: $224

Similar to the diode isolator setup above, but with MOSFETS instead of diodes. This means no4) voltage drop.

20A DC-DC + 20A solar controller + isolator: $191-$252

The main benefit of a separate MPPT is we get to normal PV input limits, 100v+. We also may have more control. One can also drastically reduce cost by using PWM with nominal 12v panels.

20A DC-DC + 20A DC-DC + 20A solar controller + diode isolator: $192-$253

20A DC-DC 20A DC-DC + 20A solar controller + MOSFET isolator: $243-$304

50A DC-DC combo chargers: $265-$328

50A is a big step down from 100-140A, but it is not clear how long the official combo would sustain >50A in anyhow. The 20A DC-DC will be consistent but the isolator's current will drop ~linearly as bank voltage rises to meet alternator voltage.

  • Kisae DMT1250, $328. The major advantage over the Renogy below are 50v PV input instead of 23v, and a preference for alternator charging at 50A.
  • Renogy DCC50, $265. Probably the most common DC-DC charger in 2022.
1)
until battery voltage == alternator voltage
2)
one-way like diodes, but with less voltage drop
3)
which can ususally tolerate high floats
4)
or minimal
electrical/12v/diysmartpass.1661198439.txt.gz · Last modified: 2022/08/22 16:00 by frater_secessus