Differences

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--- rv:assessment [2022/05/04 00:21]
princess_fluffypants [Do extensive research on exactly what you're looking at]
+++ rv:assessment [2024/02/12 18:43] (current)
princess_fluffypants [Assessing a vehicle for possible purchase]
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-====== Assessing a camper or other vehicle for possible purchase ======
+====== Assessing a vehicle for possible purchase ======
-===== Do extensive research on exactly what you're looking at =====
+"//No van ever costs less than $5,000.//" - Anonymous
+===== Do extensive research on the exact vehicle you're looking at =====
 You should go into every potential buying inspection knowing //more// about that specific model of vehicle than the seller does. Before you even go to look at a vehicle in person, you want to know things like:
@@ Line 10: / Line 11: @@
     * Owner forums for specific models can be //immensely// valuable for finding this!
   * What are the factory recommended service intervals?
-    * How often does the manufacturer recommend not just things like oil changes, but things like transmission fluid changes, serpentine belt replacement, cam chain/belt changes, waterpump rebuilds, A/C system recharges, coolant flushes, brake fluid changes, etc?
+    * How often does the manufacturer recommend things like transmission fluid changes, serpentine belt replacement, cam chain/belt changes, waterpump rebuilds, A/C system recharges, coolant flushes, brake fluid changes, etc?
+===== Miles =====
+Not all miles are created equal.  "City" driving characterized by frequent short trips and start-stop driving causes immensely more wear and tear per mile than cruising down the highway.
+As a //HUGE// over simplification for the chassis/engine/body itself:
+  * 0-10,000 miles
+    * Higher risk of manufacturing defects, failures or repairs needed due to build issues.
+  * 10,000-100,000 miles
+    * Usually the most trouble-free period, but also expensive to buy something used.
+  * 100,000-150,000 miles
+    * The sweet spot. Maintainence items will start to become more common, but most vehicles will still be pretty reliable. Depreciation has taken it's biggest bite so prices start to become quite reasonable.
+  * 150,000-200,000
+    * Minor repairs will start to be needed, but the purchase prices can be low enough to make it worth it.  See the [[rv:van_issues|All vans have issues]] page for some common failure points that are model specific to watch out for.
+    * Having some mechanical abilities are useful to help tell the "Oh that's annoying but I can live with it" problems from the "shut down the engine immediately to prevent further damage" problems.
+  * 200,000-300,000
+    * Vans with this many miles can be //very// cheap if you are savvy, but this is also where miles can start to be a concern.
+    * If you're buying something with this mileage, you should be capable of doing minor to medium repairs yourself.
+    * Passenger vans are typically in better shape with higher mileage. Especially if you can find something that did a lot of highway driving (like airport shuttles), this many miles might not be //as// much of a problem.
+  * 300,000+ miles
+    * This is the danger zone, only experienced mechanics should be looking for vehicles in this range.  They can still be acceptably reliable, but you need to know what you're doing.
+===== Mechanic's inspection =====
+If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**.
+The potential vehicle is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected.  This usually takes less than an hour and costs $50 - $100.
+If you're buying a factory-made RV, you'll want to take it to an RV specific repair shop to have it inspected by someone who specializes in RVs. These inspections take much longer and are more expensive, because they are checking many more systems. Expect to pay $150-200 and it might take a few hours.
+If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection.  This will reassure him you are honest and give him something to show other buyers if you decide to pass.  If the seller still won't allow the vehicle to be inspected it may be safest to assume they are hiding something about the vehicle's condition.
+On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting.  On older vehicles there will generally be work needed immediately or at some future time; this isn't necessarily a problem, but you should take it into account when negotiating the price of the vehicle. The mechanic should be able to ballpark the costs of the needed repairs.
@@ Line 33: / Line 68: @@
 ==== Ask the seller the right questions ====
-  * Why are you selling it?
   * How long have you had it?
   * What did you use it for?
@@ Line 44: / Line 78: @@
   * Will I be able to see the title when I come to see the vehicle?
   * When and what recent repairs or maintenance has been done?
+  * Why are you selling it?
   * Can I have it inspected by a mechanic?
 If the answer to any of these questions is seems shady, complicated, or uninformed it may be wise to pass.
-Tales of woe like these are red flags:
+Tales of woe like these about the title are red flags:
   * "I don't have it"
     * Translation: //"The van is stolen."//
   * "I have the title somewhere, I'll send it to you later"
     * Translation:  //"I don't have it"// (See above)
@@ Line 105: / Line 140: @@
 ==== rust ====
-Rust-free is better than rusted, but body panel rust is less serious than frame rust (for example).  Your mechanic will be able to advise what is cosmetic and what is problematic.
+Rust-free is better than rusted, but body panel rust is less serious than frame rust (for example). Your mechanic will be able to advise what is cosmetic and what is problematic.
+See the page on [[rv:rust|rust]] for info on prevention.
 ==== known issues ====
@@ Line 114: / Line 151: @@
-===== Miles =====
-Not all miles are created equal.  "City" driving characterized by frequent short trips and start-stop driving causes immensely more wear and tear per mile than cruising down the highway.
-As a //HUGE// over simplification for the chassis/engine/body itself:
-  * 0-10,000 miles
-    * Higher risk of manufacturing defects, failures or repairs needed due to build issues.
-  * 10,000-100,000 miles
-    * Usually the most trouble-free period, but also still going to be the most expensive to buy something used.
-  * 100,000-200,000 miles
-    * The sweet spot for used purchases. Minor repairs will be occasional, but by this time the purchase price is typically low enough to make it worth it.  See the [[rv:van_issues|All vans have issues]] page for some common failure points that are model specific to watch out for.
-  * 200,000-300,000
-    * This is where miles can start to be a concern. Typically if you're buying something with this mileage, you should be fairly mechanically inclined and capable of doing minor to medium repairs yourself.
-    * Vans with this many miles can start to become //very// cheap if you are savvy.
-    * Passenger vans (especially those used for airport shuttles or with lots of highway driving) are typically in better shape with these many miles.  Especially if you can find something that did a lot of highway usage, this many miles is likely not going to be a problem and can get you a fairly reliable van for not much money.
-  * 300,000+ miles
-    * This is the danger zone for most vehicles, and only experienced mechanics who know what they're doing should be looking for vehicles in this range.  They can still be had and can still be acceptably reliable, but you need to know what you're doing.
-===== Mechanic's inspection =====
-If the vehicle still interests you after the above it is time for a **pre-sale inspection**.
-The potential camper is taken to a preselected mechanic (who knows you're coming!) to have it professionally inspected.  This usually takes less than an hour and costs $50 - $100.
-If the seller balks at the inspection you might sweeten the deal by offering to provide him with a copy of the inspection.  This will reassure him you are honest and give him something to show other buyers if you decide to pass.  If the seller still won't allow the vehicle to be inspected it may be safest to assume they are hiding something about the vehicle's condition.
-On new or nearly-new vehicles the mechanic may find nothing interesting.  On older vehicles there will generally be work needed immediately or at some future time ;  the mech will be able to ballpark the costs of the needed repairs.
 ==== non-local vehicles ====

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