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electrical:triac
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electrical:triac [2024/04/05 19:15] frater_secessus [actual examples of use] |
electrical:triac [2024/06/25 11:10] (current) frater_secessus [appropriate loads] |
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| ===== appropriate loads ===== | ===== appropriate loads ===== | ||
| - | * analog((not digital or electronic)) resistance loads like heating pads, crock pots, hot plates, immersion heaters, rice cookers, //bento// " | + | |
| - | * simple devices with motors like fans, routers, etc. Warning: | + | * simple devices with motors like fans, routers, etc. Warning: |
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| There is little clear information on the topic since running them off inverters is an extreme minority position, but it appears that speed controls work best on PSW inverters. | There is little clear information on the topic since running them off inverters is an extreme minority position, but it appears that speed controls work best on PSW inverters. | ||
| - | While resistive loads don't care about MSW vs PSW, inductive loads like motors will run hotter and " | + | While resistive loads don't care about MSW vs PSW, motors will run hotter and " |
| ===== actual examples of use ===== | ===== actual examples of use ===== | ||
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| >> I used it this morning to control the heater element on my coffee maker - the coffee maker element is rated at 1440 W at 120V, and a Kill-a-watt registers 1420 from it. If set to non-variable mode the kill-a-watt registered 1410. When switched to variable, the output was as follows: at the lowest setting it output 687 W, at the middle of L it output 710, at the top of L: 750, at mid-M 812, at low H 955, and at the max the Kill-a-watt showed 1374 W. My desire was to reduce the output of the coffee maker to slow the brewing and it worked perfectly for that. The unit heats up whether in variable or non-variable mode, in variable mode it does get hotter, but not excessively in my opinion. Your mileage will likely vary... | >> I used it this morning to control the heater element on my coffee maker - the coffee maker element is rated at 1440 W at 120V, and a Kill-a-watt registers 1420 from it. If set to non-variable mode the kill-a-watt registered 1410. When switched to variable, the output was as follows: at the lowest setting it output 687 W, at the middle of L it output 710, at the top of L: 750, at mid-M 812, at low H 955, and at the max the Kill-a-watt showed 1374 W. My desire was to reduce the output of the coffee maker to slow the brewing and it worked perfectly for that. The unit heats up whether in variable or non-variable mode, in variable mode it does get hotter, but not excessively in my opinion. Your mileage will likely vary... | ||
| - | The above reviewer was able to vary the power from 48% to 97% of the normal measured power by adjusting the controller' | + | The above reviewer was able to vary the power from 48% to 97% of the normal measured power by adjusting the controller' |
| One RVer noted he tried the controller with a grinder on both PSW and MSW: | One RVer noted he tried the controller with a grinder on both PSW and MSW: | ||
| Line 52: | Line 51: | ||
| Note from secessus: | Note from secessus: | ||
| - | >> when I ran a measured 928w hotplate at the lowest controller setting the power was ~550w, or about 60% of normal full power | + | >> when I ran a measured 928w hotplate at the lowest controller setting the power was ~550w, or about 60% of normal full power. |
| So until further information is forthcoming **we might ballpark speed controls on PSW reducing power to ~50% of normal and MSW to ~60% of normal**. But another Amazon reviewer((again, | So until further information is forthcoming **we might ballpark speed controls on PSW reducing power to ~50% of normal and MSW to ~60% of normal**. But another Amazon reviewer((again, | ||
| >> ...there is a hidden adjustment potentiometer inside for minimum power setting. Wall dimmer switches have these as well. I was able to adjust it, but I’m waiting for my tachometer to get it where it needs to be. By the sound of the motor, I can tell it will go down enough. They really should disclose this adjustment in the instructions… Note: The hidden adjustment is soldered onto the top side of the PCB inside but you need to use a small flathead screwdriver to adjust it from the back after removing the back cover. | >> ...there is a hidden adjustment potentiometer inside for minimum power setting. Wall dimmer switches have these as well. I was able to adjust it, but I’m waiting for my tachometer to get it where it needs to be. By the sound of the motor, I can tell it will go down enough. They really should disclose this adjustment in the instructions… Note: The hidden adjustment is soldered onto the top side of the PCB inside but you need to use a small flathead screwdriver to adjust it from the back after removing the back cover. | ||
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| + | See [[https:// | ||
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| ===== further reading ===== | ===== further reading ===== | ||
| - | * [[https:// | + | |
| + | * YT: [[https:// | ||
electrical/triac.1712358940.txt.gz · Last modified: 2024/04/05 19:15 by frater_secessus
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