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--- electrical:12v:alternator_details [2024/03/29 19:16]
frater_secessus [voltage]
+++ electrical:12v:alternator_details [2025/02/26 11:29] (current)
frater_secessus [Heavy duty / high output]
@@ Line 227: / Line 227: @@
 External regulation can provide overtemperature protection (see section on Heat above), current limiting, and can also cause the alternator to behave like a smart charger with [[electrical:12v:charging|multistage charging]].
+In a camper/RV context //an externally-regulated alternator// typically means an **aftermarket external regulator** controlling a **dedicated secondary alternator**.((on boats there is typically one externally-regulated alternator that runs the electrics and charges the house bank.  Modern land vehicles are likely less tolerant of the alternator doing things the ECU did not command.))  Depending on the implementation external regulation might provide:
+  * configurable current levels and/or voltage setpoints
+  * [[electrical:12v:charging|multistage (smart) charging]]
+  * temperature monitoring so maximal current can be extracted without overheating
+  * RPM-based output limits
+  * slowly ramping up current to avoid belt slippage/damage
+  * shutoff when commanded by BMS
+  * CANBUS and other communication
+  * etc
+External regulators include:
+  * Balmar ARS-5 (no external voltage sensing)
+  * Balmar MC-614 (external voltage sensing)
+  * Xantrex Xar (no external voltage sensing)
+  * Wakespeed WS500 (CANBUS)
+  * [[https://theyachtrigger.com/arco-zeus-alternator-regulator/|Arco Zeus]] - new to market
+  * [[https://www.mastervolt.com/products/alpha-pro-mb-charge-regulator1/alpha-pro-iii/|Mastervolt]], more often seen in marine installs
+  * [[https://sterling-power.com/collections/alternator-regulators|Sterling]]
@@ Line 255: / Line 277: @@
 [[https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/|Nations]] and similar alternator builders make alternators for specialty uses.
-Note that increasing alternator output may require upgrading stock chassis wiring:
+=== big three ===
+Note that increasing alternator output may require upgrading stock chassis wiring.  Often called "the Big Three":
+  - POS from alternator to starter battery
+  - NEG from starter battery to chassis
+  - NEG from chassis to engine block
 >> To run a [high output] alternator, ALL of your engine's factory high current cabling will need to be [sized] to support it, including engine and starting battery grounds, and alternator positive. -- MechEngrSGH((https://www.irv2.com/forums/f87/alternator-burn-out-from-lithium-batteries-558284-8.html#post6428559))
+In addition, the wiring from the starter batt or alternator to the house battery bank may require upsizing to actually get that current where you want it to go.
 ==== Idle optimized ====
@@ Line 317: / Line 351: @@
+== GM ==
+Information is limited, but GM factory dual alt setups appear to run the way one would expect in the first place, with load shared between them:
+> The two alternators are controlled over a common circuit from the ECM so they cannot be controlled independently. The ECM cannot shut one down and let the other one run. It is both or neither.((https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/dual-alternator.934098/post-11906770))
+[[https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/dual-alternator.934098/post-11906642|This upfitters guide excerpt]] contains additional information.
 ==== DUVAC ====

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