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electrical:12v:b2b [2024/08/18 16:11] frater_secessus [triggering / isolation] changed subsection name and added section. |
electrical:12v:b2b [2025/03/10 11:54] (current) frater_secessus [examples - power stations] added link to solar input limit workaround |
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See [[electrical: | See [[electrical: | ||
- | ===== triggering | ||
- | |||
- | The general idea is to feed power from the chassis (usually the starter battery) to the house battery **only when the alternator is making power**, and isolate the two from each other when it is not. The DC-DC will handle this in one of two ways: | ||
- | |||
- | * **voltage sensing** - watching chassis voltage like [[electrical: | ||
- | * by receiving a **trigger signal** (AKA " | ||
- | |||
- | Product documentation will tell you how the unit is triggered.((sometimes both methods are used together)) | ||
- | |||
- | ==== installation ==== | ||
- | |||
- | A DC-DC charger is installed as close to the battery bank as practical, in order to minimize [[electrical: | ||
- | |||
- | To simplify the installation and minimize expense you may be able to run the input NEG to the chassis rather than all the way back to the starter battery NEG. If the chassis introduces too much resistance to allow hitting the desired charging output you can punt and run heavy NEG wire all the way back to the starter batt. | ||
- | |||
- | The product manual will give specific guidance on wire gauge, fusing, mounting orientation, | ||
===== sizing ===== | ===== sizing ===== | ||
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* **AGM lead-acid** accepts a max of about 0.33C, or 33A per 100A of battery capacity, and requires a minimum of 0.2C (20A). | * **AGM lead-acid** accepts a max of about 0.33C, or 33A per 100A of battery capacity, and requires a minimum of 0.2C (20A). | ||
* **Lithium** has very low internal resistance and //may// be able to slurp up all the alternator has to give.((in practice, due to wiring resistance and other factors [[electrical: | * **Lithium** has very low internal resistance and //may// be able to slurp up all the alternator has to give.((in practice, due to wiring resistance and other factors [[electrical: | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ===== triggering | ||
+ | |||
+ | The general idea is to feed power from the chassis (usually the starter battery) to the house battery **only when the alternator is making power**, and isolate the two from each other when it is not. The DC-DC will handle this in one of two ways: | ||
+ | |||
+ | * **voltage sensing** - watching chassis voltage like [[electrical: | ||
+ | * by receiving a **trigger signal** (AKA " | ||
+ | * **voltage sensing + trigger signal** - this is often used to tell voltage-sensing DC-DC that the alternator is smart (variable voltage). | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | Product documentation will tell you how the unit is triggered.((sometimes both methods are used together)) | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== installation ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | A DC-DC charger is installed as close to the battery bank as practical, in order to minimize [[electrical: | ||
+ | |||
+ | To simplify the installation and minimize expense you may be able to run the input NEG to the chassis rather than all the way back to the starter battery NEG. If the chassis introduces too much resistance to allow hitting the desired charging output you can punt and run heavy NEG wire all the way back to the starter batt. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The product manual will give specific guidance on wire gauge, fusing, mounting orientation, | ||
+ | |||
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Update: | Update: | ||
- | == solar+alternator behavior | + | = solar+alternator behavior = |
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[[https:// | [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | == RBC40D1S == | ||
+ | |||
+ | 40A DC-DC w/MPPT that appears very similar to the Redodo/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | * 30v PV input | ||
+ | * smart and traditional alternators | ||
+ | * no float in LFP profile, rebulking at 13.6v | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | = starter battery maintenance behavior = | ||
+ | |||
+ | not described, and presumed not present | ||
+ | |||
+ | = solar+alternator behavior = | ||
+ | |||
+ | When both are present it defaults to alternator priority (only). | ||
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>> For DMT1230, 1250 using CH 2 (Solar Array/ | >> For DMT1230, 1250 using CH 2 (Solar Array/ | ||
+ | === disabling the Kisae === | ||
+ | |||
+ | * tricking the Battery Temperature Sensor port - [[https:// | ||
+ | * modifying the existing ON/OFF switch - [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | The brute force method would be a battery cut-off switch or relay on the POS wire coming from the chassis. | ||
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==== Renogy ==== | ==== Renogy ==== | ||
- | [[https:// | + | [[https:// |
=== DC1212 series === | === DC1212 series === | ||
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[[https:// | [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | === RBC series === | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | * seems to be in [[https:// | ||
+ | * configurable output current via the app | ||
+ | * Voltage-sensing (with D+ for smart alts) | ||
+ | * can use [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
==== Redarc ==== | ==== Redarc ==== | ||
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- | ==== examples - without current limiting ==== | + | ===== examples - without current limiting |
The [[https:// | The [[https:// | ||
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Also see the Votronics section above for their DCC 25A 1224 charger. | Also see the Votronics section above for their DCC 25A 1224 charger. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== examples - power stations ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Power stations often suffer from low DC input limits. | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Warning: | ||
+ | |||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
+ | * [[https:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | Functionally, | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== a word about nomenclature ==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | These are listed in the DC-DC article because that is how they are used and how many people think of them. They are really voltage boosters that output a steady voltage, whether configured by the user or set at the factory. | ||
===== installing inline with a relay ===== | ===== installing inline with a relay ===== | ||
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- repeat forever | - repeat forever | ||
- | The workaround is to either charge the house battery first or to buy a big enough starter battery maintainer to support both the starter battery and DC-DC charger loads. | + | The workaround is to either charge the house battery first or to buy a big enough starter battery maintainer to support both the starter battery and DC-DC charger loads. Or (if the model has [[electrical: |
===== further reading ===== | ===== further reading ===== | ||
[[https:// | [[https:// |