| Both sides previous revision
Previous revision
Next revision
|
Previous revision
|
communication:internet [2023/08/25 00:20]
princess_fluffypants [Satellite Internet] |
communication:internet [2025/03/24 18:37] (current)
frater_secessus [Connecting to WiFi] |
| - [[communication:security|security]] - know what is safe and what is not | - [[communication:security|security]] - know what is safe and what is not |
| - expense - mobile data is $$$ compared to residential broadband | - expense - mobile data is $$$ compared to residential broadband |
| | |
| | See the [[https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/|Mobile Internet Resource Center]] for the latest news and updates regarding internet for people on the move. |
| | |
| | [[https://engineerswhovanlife.com/category/van-life/internet/|Engineers who Vanlife]] have a good section on their website about internet options. |
| |
| ---- | ---- |
| {{:communication:squishy.jpg?direct&200 |}} | {{:communication:squishy.jpg?direct&200 |}} |
| |
| This is the holy grail of long-term van life, especially for those who prefer wilderness and remote areas. Historically Satellite internet services have been plagued by //very// high prices for minuscule data usage, and unrealistically bulky equipment (think DirectTV dishes). However with the advent of Starlink this is changing: https://www.starlink.com/rv | Starlink is the satellite internet service offered by Space-X, and offers a tier of service [[https://www.starlink.com/roam|specifically for RVs]]. $50-$150/mo and a $500-$2,500 receiver gets you extremely fast internet in most places in the country (Worldwide roaming is available for $200/mo). Although when on the RV/Roaming plan, your traffic is de-prioritized over users who have a fixed address in the area and you may experience slower speeds. This is more of a problem east of the Mississippi River. |
| |
| Starlink is the satellite internet service offered by Space-X, and offers a tier of service specifically for RVs. $150/mo and a $600 receiver (or $2,500 for an in-motion receiver) gets you extremely fast internet in most places in the country. Although when on the RV plan, your traffic is de-prioritized over users who have a fixed address in the area and you may experience slower speeds. This is more of a problem east of the Mississippi. | Starlink works best in remote areas and may not work well in cities. The receiver((who's official name is "Dishy McFlatface")) also requires a //completely// unobstructed view of the sky; even power lines and small tree branches will cause frequent service drop outs. This is a good solution for boondockers who set up camp in the wilderness, but it offers less usability for urban dwellers. |
| |
| The catch is that Starlink works best in remote areas and often doesn't work //at all// in cities. Out west this is usually not a problem, but east of the Mississippi river there is usually too much population density for the service to be usable. See the coverage map here: https://www.starlink.com/map. This is a good solution for boondockers who set up camp in the wilderness, but it doesn't offer much usability for urban dwellers. The general rule is that if you have a cell phone signal, you're not remote enough to use Starlink and should stick to Cellular options instead, as they'll probably be faster/more reliable. | {{ :communication:starlink-mini-and-puppy.jpeg?nolink&400|}} |
| |
| The receiver((who's official name is "Dishy McFlatface")) is also fairly large (about the size of a pizza box) and takes a lot of power (50-100w continuous draw). The less expensive receiver isn't designed for the sort of vibration and forces imparted when driving, so the majority of Starlink users keep the dish inside the van with them and only deploy it when they're stopped somewhere for an extended period of time. See one user's experience here: https://www.tuckstruck.net/truck-and-kit/geekery/starlink-for-overlanders/. The in-motion receiver //is// designed to mounted to the roof of vehicles and be operable while moving, but for most van dwellers the costs is not worth it. | The receivers vary in size from the size of a laptop (Mini Dishy) to about the size of an Xtra-Large pizza box (HP In-Motion Dishy), and can take a lot of power (50-150w continuous draw, depending on the dish and weather conditions). The less expensive receivers aren't designed for the sort of vibration and forces imparted when driving, so the majority of Starlink users keep the dish inside the van with them and only deploy it when they're stopped somewhere for an extended period of time. See one user's experience here: https://www.tuckstruck.net/truck-and-kit/geekery/starlink-for-overlanders/. The in-motion $2,500 receiver //is// designed to mounted to the roof of vehicles and be operable while moving, but for most van dwellers the costs is not worth it. |
| |
| Another downside is that to work, the receiver needs a completely unobstructed view of the entire sky. A single small tree somewhere in field of view is sometimes enough to make the connection drop out every few minutes, so sometimes having the portable (non-vehicle-mounted) dish is preferable. You can park in the shade, and run the dish out into a clearing (it's weatherproof). | Sometimes having the portable (non-vehicle-mounted) dish is preferable. You can park in the shade, and run the dish out into a clearing (it's weatherproof). |
| |
| === Powering Starlink === | === Powering Starlink === |
| |
| The Starlink dish is powered from the included router, which runs off of AC wall power. Unfortunately the transformer is integrated into the router itself, so using the router will require use of an inverter and the associated efficiency loss. | Mini Dishy can be powered directly from a 100w PD 3.1 capable USB-C port [[https://star-mountsystems.com/products/dc-power-cable-direct-to-usb-c|using a special cable like this.]] Cig lighter outlet power cables are also available. |
| |
| Running Starlink off of 12v is slightly challenging and will require providing your own router (see below for good Peplink and Cradlepoint options, but cheap consumer routers work fine for most people). You'll need to inject power into the cable going to Dishy, but it has proprietary connections, uses a non-standard Ethernet wiring and non-standard PoE((Power Over Ethernet)). Various options are available depending on skill level, [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zy6EqYZlscU|this video]] being a good start. | Running the larger Starlink dishes off of 12v is slightly challenging and will require providing your own router (see below for good Peplink and Cradlepoint options, but cheap consumer routers work fine for most people). You'll need to inject power into the cable going to Dishy, but it has proprietary connections, uses a non-standard Ethernet wiring and non-standard PoE((Power Over Ethernet)). Various options are available depending on skill level, [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zy6EqYZlscU|this video]] being a good start. Also see [[https://www.starlinkhardware.com/tutorial-12v-dc-power-supply-for-starlink-rv/|this article for less-destructive methods]] of powering Starlink directly from 12v. |
| |
| Experiments with powering the injector [[https://www.offgridcto.com/2022/05/23/starlink-on-pure-dc-power/|directly off of 12v DC]] using a Buck/Boost converter have yielded [[https://www.tuckstruck.net/truck-and-kit/geekery/modifying-the-starlink-power-supply-to-run-on-ac-and-dc/|net power savings of ~30%]]. | People who have successfully powered Dishy [[https://www.offgridcto.com/2022/05/23/starlink-on-pure-dc-power/|directly off of 12v DC]] using a have reported [[https://www.tuckstruck.net/truck-and-kit/geekery/modifying-the-starlink-power-supply-to-run-on-ac-and-dc/|net power savings of ~30%]]. |
| |
| ---- | ---- |
| Sometimes called "jetpacks", these small devices are about the size of a deck of cards and effectively function as cell phones doing a perpetual hotspot (like above) but without the phone. They broadcast a small local WiFi network that you can connect your laptop, maybe phone, and a few other devices to (typically they don't support more than 5 WiFi devices connecting to them). | Sometimes called "jetpacks", these small devices are about the size of a deck of cards and effectively function as cell phones doing a perpetual hotspot (like above) but without the phone. They broadcast a small local WiFi network that you can connect your laptop, maybe phone, and a few other devices to (typically they don't support more than 5 WiFi devices connecting to them). |
| |
| You buy them typically through your cellular provider, and they are billed monthly just like any other cell phone line. Usually carriers have different types of plans available for these devices, and while larger packages are available in the 100gig+ range they get very expensive. | You buy them typically through your cellular provider, and they are billed monthly just like any other cell phone line. Usually carriers have different types of plans available for these devices, including larger packages in the 100gig+ range. |
| |
| === Cellular Routers === | === Cellular Routers === |
| {{:communication:verizon-certified-automatic-failover-single-cellular-router-max-br1-mk2-2-1800x0-c-default.png?250 |}} | {{:communication:verizon-certified-automatic-failover-single-cellular-router-max-br1-mk2-2-1800x0-c-default.png?250 |}} |
| |
| Bigger versions of "Hotspot" devices, they offer more speed and capabilities at a higher cost. They typically have external antenna connection options, and sometimes the ability to bond multiple connection types together at once. Functionally they offer similarity to a consumer home Wi-Fi router, with the addition that you can stick a SIM card in them for internet instead of needing to plug them into your cable modem. | Bigger versions of "Hotspot" devices, they offer more speed and capabilities at a higher cost. Functionally they offer similarity to a consumer home Wi-Fi router, with the addition that you can stick a SIM card in them for internet instead of needing to plug them into your cable modem. They can also sometimes offer features like connection bonding and external antennas, which can GREATLY enhance cellular speed/availability if paired with an external roof-mounted antenna. |
| |
| [[https://www.peplink.com|Peplink]] is extremely popular in the world of overlanders and cruisers (boaters). They offer good capabilities in terms of speed, features, and connectivity at a price that is more palatable to most people who are living in a van. Their [[https://www.peplink.com/products/max-br1-series/|Max BR1]] line of cellular routers offer a reasonable blend of capacity and capabilities for the price. | [[https://www.peplink.com|Peplink]] is extremely popular in the world of overlanders and cruisers (boaters). They offer good capabilities in terms of speed, features, and connectivity at a price that is more palatable to most people who are living in a van. Their [[https://www.peplink.com/products/max-br1-series/|Max BR1]] line of cellular routers offer a reasonable blend of capacity and capabilities for the price. |
| | |
| | Something to pay attention is the number of spatial streams a router supports. This is typically something like **"2x2"** or **"4x4"** |
| | |
| | A "2x2" cellular router means that the device can transmit and receive 2 spatial data streams at the same time. This can give both more speed and more range, as you'll actually have two separate antenna leads so you've got a better chance that at least one of them is getting a good signal. If it can get good signal with both, it'll bond them together for more speed. |
| | |
| | A "4x4" router can do four data streams, which is even faster and has even better range, but also means you need an antenna that has four leads on it which is more expensive. |
| |
| === Professional equipment === | === Professional equipment === |
| * In ideal situations, [[https://panorama-antennas.com/site/High-Performance-4x4-MiMo-Antennas|purpose-made antennas]] are mounted to the roof of the vehicle and then connected to the receiving device inside. This is the best solution, however they are expensive and require drilling yet more holes in your van. | * In ideal situations, [[https://panorama-antennas.com/site/High-Performance-4x4-MiMo-Antennas|purpose-made antennas]] are mounted to the roof of the vehicle and then connected to the receiving device inside. This is the best solution, however they are expensive and require drilling yet more holes in your van. |
| |
| === Extenders & Repeaters === | === Extenders and Repeaters === |
| |
| |
| Wifi extenders/repeaters/routers work by hopping a wifi signal from some further access point. They are //multiple-device solutions//; all your devices will leverage the repeated wifi. | Wifi extenders/repeaters/routers work by hopping a wifi signal from some further access point. They are //multiple-device solutions//; all your devices will leverage the repeated wifi. |
| |
| * //Extending//((sometimes called "repeating")) takes the signal (Taco Bell Wifi, for example) and makes it available as Taco Bell Wifi in your van. The Taco Bell Wifi signal is //extended// beyond its original design. | * //Repeating//((sometimes called relaying)) takes the Taco Bell Wifi and replays it as MyVanWiFi or whatever in your van. While slightly more complex to set up, this is the ideal solution. |
| * **Notes from a professional wireless network engineer:** These things are //terrible// and should be avoided in all but the rarest of circumstances. Because they're adding a repeating station to an already large collision domain, every WiFi repeater that is connected to a network **reduces the speed of the entire wireless network by 75%**. The best analogy is that they're the WiFi equivalent of [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_microphone|The People's Megaphone]], and like the people's megaphone they make all types of communication //vastly// slower. Using one of these might make more bars appear on your phone, but as a result you are crapping all over the WiFi for everyone else who is connected to it. | * Repeating works by having two separate WiFi devices connected back-to-back; One WiFi device acts as the "receiver", and connects to the host SSID (The Taco Bell WiFi). While the other WiFi device acts as your personal "transmitter" and broadcasts your local in-van network. |
| * //Relaying//((sometimes called routing)) takes the Taco Bell Wifi and replays it as MyVanWiFi or whatever in your van. While slightly more complex to set up, this is the ideal solution. | |
| * Relaying works by having two separate WiFi devices connected back-to-back; One WiFi device acts as the "receiver", and connects to the host SSID (The Taco Bell WiFi). While the other WiFi device acts as your personal "transmitter" and broadcasts your local in-van network. | |
| * There are products out there that attempt to do this in a single device, with varying degrees of success. However by using a receiver such as a Ubiquiti Nanostation Loco as a "receiver", and then plugged it into the WAN port whatever off-the-shelf Best Buy router you have laying around, you can accomplish this for less than $100. | * There are products out there that attempt to do this in a single device, with varying degrees of success. However by using a receiver such as a Ubiquiti Nanostation Loco as a "receiver", and then plugged it into the WAN port whatever off-the-shelf Best Buy router you have laying around, you can accomplish this for less than $100. |
| * Many commercial products such as the above-mentioned Cradlepoint routers support this setup with the term "WiFi-as-WAN". Usually you'll use one of the cellular radios (the 2.4GHz or 5GHz) to connect to the Taco Bell Wifi, and then the other radio will broadcast MyVanWiFi. Tri-band routers (which typically have two 5ghz radios and one 2.4ghz radio) are great for this as they give a lot of flexibility. | * Many commercial products such as the above-mentioned Cradlepoint routers support this setup with the term "WiFi-as-WAN". Usually you'll use one of the cellular radios (the 2.4GHz or 5GHz) to connect to the Taco Bell Wifi, and then the other radio will broadcast MyVanWiFi. Tri-band routers (which typically have two 5ghz radios and one 2.4ghz radio) are great for this as they give a lot of flexibility. |
| | * //Extending//((sometimes called "repeating")) takes the signal (Taco Bell Wifi, for example) and makes it available as Taco Bell Wifi in your van. The Taco Bell Wifi signal is //extended// beyond its original design. |
| | * **Notes from a professional wireless network engineer:** These things are //terrible// and should be avoided in all but the rarest of circumstances. Because they're adding a repeating station to an already large collision domain, every WiFi repeater that is connected to a network **reduces the speed of the entire wireless network by 75%**. The best analogy is that they're the WiFi equivalent of [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_microphone|The People's Megaphone]], and like the people's megaphone they make all types of communication //vastly// slower. Using one of these might make more bars appear on your phone, but as a result you are crapping all over the WiFi for everyone else who is connected to it. |
| | |
| | |
| |
| [[https://amzn.to/2GWOaCG|{{ https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31LsBv9brZL._SY90_.jpg}}]]Low-end and hobbyist units are inexpensive and can work okay, depending on your usage and technical ability. | [[https://amzn.to/2GWOaCG|{{ https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31LsBv9brZL._SY90_.jpg}}]]Low-end and hobbyist units are inexpensive and can work okay, depending on your usage and technical ability. |
