This is a difficult problem, since neither you nor the people who want to help you know how your system is put together or what it is designed to do. Coulda/woulda/shoulda¹⁾ don't matter right now because you're stuck without power.

Let's see if we can get you on your feet first, then we can worry about doing things the right way.

if it ever worked before and doesn't work now then at least one of these is probably true;

• an electrical connection is compromised: wiring terminal loose, fuse blown / breaker tripped
• something was inadvertently turned off by physical switch or app setting
• something has failed or worn out²⁾

If it's never worked then perhaps

• something is installed but not hooked up or turned on (see above)
• it wasn't installed
• it failed before you bought it and the seller didn't know or didn't say

It's also possible that it's working fine but you don't know it. Example: “my charger isn't charging my lithium batteries even though they are not at 100%”.

Pay attention to what is happening so you can describe it clearly and accurately to people who want to help but who cannot see your van.

• useful information: “My inverter gives a E3 error and stops working when the battery monitor says voltage is below 11v”
• ok information: “my inverter doesn't work when voltage is 11v”
• useless: “my inverter doesn't work”

When describing charging/noncharging problems, please report voltage and current changes you observe when any charging sources are added. “My battery monitor shows 12.4v and does not change when I start the engine.”

I encourage you to make a text document on your phone or PC to hold info on what we find in this section. Not only is it handy for you, but if you ever need help you can paste in the data so we can tell what you've got. win-win

Sources of information:

• the sales listing from when you bought the van
• communications with the seller or manufacturer
• receipts and other paperwork (manuals?) that came with the van

Personal note: here is my own plaintext list, and a fancier version with commentary. I did not know this off the top of my head – I went through my amazon orders, emails, etc, to gather it all up.

It might be overwhelming to try to understand all at once, so start simple. Look around you. What can you see that might be electrical? Can you take and post pics if nothing else?

House (“living area”) battery banks are usually large and often the size and shape of the van starter battery you've seen under the hood. There are likely thick red/black cables connecting them to the rest of the system. There may be one or more batteries in the bank, and can be arranged in parallel or series.

* How many are there? * Do you see any capacity markings like Ah(amp-hours) or Wh³⁾ * Do you see a model name, like Smart Lithium Iron Phosphate? * Do you see any charging guidelines on the lable?⁴⁾

Solar panels are usually pretty obvious if you have them. They may be mounted on a rack, adhered flat to the roof, or be portables/suitcases that store inside the van. The backside label will show the specs you'll need to know and share. If there is no back label you will need to consult the manufacturer's website or manual.

We recharge our battery banks almost every day, so there is probably at least one charger present. All chargers have settings of some kind: battery type, charging voltages, etc. Look at your manual to see what the defaults are, and cycle through any displays/apps to see if the configuration differs from those defaults.

In order of most common to least common charging setups:

The solar charge controller will have wires coming into it from the solar panels, assuming they are permanently mounted. The other set of wires goes out to the battery bank.

Common brands are Victron, Renogy, EpEver. Morningstar and Blue Sky were premium controllers that are not as common in vans nowadays. There are also many rebranded inexpensive-but-functional controllers from SRNE, BougeRV, Eco-Worthy, etc.

The lowest end of the market is flooded with very cheap controllers (often incorrectly called “MPPT”) in the $10-$20 range. These can work if you understand their limitations.

Alternator charging comes in two basic flavors:

1. combiners, simple and inexpensive. Includes switches, relays, voltage sensing (“smart”) relays, usually mounted near the starter battery.⁵⁾ This type of device is basically a pass-through for whatever the battery bank wants / the alternator can give. Often no name on the device at all, although VSR do sometimes carry labels like Stinger, Smart, Battery Doctor, etc.
2. DC-DC chargers, more complex and costly chargers that can regulate current and/or voltage. Usually mounted quite close to the battery bank. Common brands include Victron Orion, Sterling, Renogy, etc.

There are are some combo DC_DC / MPPT chargers on the market. The most famous is the Renogy 50A, although the Kisae is increasingly popular.

This is the least common form of charging since few vanfolk have the luxury of access to grid power.

When present, shore power chargers might be RV-style converters from Iota, PowerMax, Progressive, WFCO. Sometimes people use shore power chargers that might not be made for vans/rvs: Noco, Schumacher, etc.

Once the crisis is over

1. adjust your cut/paste parts document anytime you add or change a component
2. observe the system in normal operation so you know how it should act when everything works