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Making, storing, and using power wisely is important for happy vandwelling. Power issues can seem overwhelming and confusing; this article intends to lay out the basics.
Before you spend money on making/storing power in your vehicle, be sure to leverage other sources:
It may be useful to carry a gym bag with a power strip, extension cord, and any items that need to be charged. The power strips allows you to charge many things at once, and the extension cord helps you reach faraway outlets or outlets in inconvenient places (on a wall, behind furniture).
There are two generally-separate electrical systems in your vehicle1):
Only you will know that, because only you will know what kinds of electrical loads you need (or want) to run. Unlike a wall socket in a house where you can run pretty much anything you want, using power you make off-grid is a series of choices and compromises. Some things are easy to run off-grid; some things are harder and require more infrastructure, planning, and money. Some things are impractical in campervans. Car-dwelling presents additional power challenges due to limited space and charging methods.
There is no way around it: you must come to grips with how much power you need each day.
Here are some very general ideas to get you thinking:
Note: devices that have "wall wart adapters" typically will not necessarily require an inverter.
Most campervans use solar combined with another charging source, usually the van's alternator. This combination can be both cheap and highly effective5)
Pro | Con | |
---|---|---|
shore power (outlet) | cheapest per watt simple abundant power | often not available if available you are tied to the outlet by your cord/adapter campgrounds with outlets are more expensive |
solar | automatically makes power when the sun shines makes high voltages needed to fully charge lead-acid batteries silent lasts for decades | most expensive per watt can be complex panels are large output drops dramatically when shaded |
alternator | automatically makes power when driving about 1/10th the cost of solar for the same current output | relatively low charging voltage6) can result in chronic undercharging should not idle to charge most people don't drive enough to fully charge lead-acid |
generator | can make 1000w+ of 120v can run for days inverter models are quieter | can be expensive ($1000+) maintenance needs to be stored when not in use noisy not allowed in some areas/times |
Alternator & solar charging enhance each other when used together. Adding alternator charging to solar can significantly reduce the amount of solar required to meet your needs.
Note: So-called solar generators do not generate power: they are battery banks, usually AGM or lithium. See below.
Power production tends to be heaviest during the day while power use tends to be heaviest overnight. This means power needs to be stored when power is abundant so it can be used later. The most common storage for power is in a deep cycle battery bank.
Pro | Con | |
---|---|---|
Flooded lead-acid (FLA) | cheapest per Ah most tolerant of abuse | lowest current throughput maintenance (“watering”) required can only use 50% of rated capacity7) |
Sealed lead-acid (SLA, AGM) | able to charge/discharge more current than FLA no maintenance required | more expensive per Ah8) cannot check or replace electrolyte |
LiFePO4 (LFP) lithium | very close to normal 12v ranges available as “drop-in” replacements for lead-acid current throughput can be more deeply discharged than lead-acid | most expensive upfront per Ah cannot be charged in freezing temperatures |
Non-LFP lithium | cheaper than LFP per Ah current throughput | thermal runaway voltage not well-suited for 12v systems |
The battery bank is sized to meet your daily power needs and as well as any extra margin you might like.
Using power is the simplest part. It's so simple the newbie may find themselves overdrawing from the available power. A low voltage disconnect (LVD) is one way to keep from overdischarging the bank.